Warning!

The components are very small and all look alike.  They come in small bags which have the exact component name marked on the bag.  Under no circumstances should you take components from two or more bags at once.  It's too easy to get them mixed up.  Work with one bag at a time.  Replace that component, then open the next bag. 

 

Another Warning!

The components in the kit are designed to fix multiple problems.  It is not necessarily going to fix your problem to change them all.  The circuit board is quite delicate.  Excess heat will cause the pads and traces to lift away from the board and damage the circuit.  We recommend replacing components only in the area of the problem you are having, or if you see a component broken off of the circuit board. 

 

Note

Some logic boards are marked, and some are not.  But all have a component layout similar to the image shown below.  Match up the label on the bag to the label on the board or the label on the photo, and then replace it.  Some components look different than the factory components because of manufacturing changes that occurred in the last 35 years, but we did our best to supply components which are electrically identical to the factory component, and as close as possible to the same physical dimensions as well.

 

Components Included in the 1990-1996 Instrument Panel Component Repair Kit  (Click image for Larger Image)

 

 

1990-1996 Instrument Panel Circuit Board (Front)  (Click image for Larger Image)

 

1990-1996 Instrument Panel Component Repair Kit (Rear)  (Click image for Larger Image)

 

 1990-1996 Instrument Panel Schematic (Partial)  (Click image for Larger Image)

 

Common Problems and Solutions

Non-working LCD or Bulb

0)  Make sure the issue isn't the bulb.  Swap the bulbs around or replace them with a B001 bulb kit from batee.com.

1)  Remove the solder on all 34 terminals where the wiring harness connector meets the PC board.

2)  Resolder those with lead solder included with the kit.  The lead solder is not as brittle as the factory lead-free solder.  This is the most common failure of the cluster.

3)  Replace connector J9 - the connector between the PC board and the LCD panel.  This is the second most common problem with the cluster.  This connector is available from batee as part B004.

4)  Replace IC U1 and capacitor C12.  This is the display driver IC.

5)  If you can surface mount solder, replace resistors R21-R34.  We have seen these break or come unsoldered when the connector C9 is replaced.

6)  Clean and consider replacing terminals in the car side of the instrument panel connector.  These terminals are available from batee.com.  It is common for the terminals to lose their spring tension and make intermittent contact with the pins in the instrument panel connector.

7)  Replace R2, R3, D2 and Z2.  These convert the 12V to 5 and 8V power supplies.

8)  Resolder the jumpers.  It is common for the solder joints to break due to the lead-bearing solder.

9)  Look for traces that have corroded or broken or evaporated due to excess current.  Use some solid wire to patch these if they are found.

 

Non-working Tach

1)  Consider checking and replacing IC U3.  This is also called the analog calibration IC / Tach cal IC and is available from batee.com.  This is the most common cause of tach issues.

2)  Remove the solder on all 34 terminals where the wiring harness connector meets the PC board.

3)  Resolder those with lead solder included with the kit.  The lead solder is not as brittle as the factory lead-free solder.  This is the most common failure of the cluster.

4)  Replace capacitors C21-23 if and only if you can surface mount solder.

5)  Replace D1 and R1.

6)  Replace R2, R3, D2 and Z2.  These convert the 12V to 5 and 8V power supplies.

7) Resolder the jumpers.  It is common for the solder joints to break due to the lead-bearing solder.

8)  Look for traces that have corroded or broken or evaporated due to excess current.  Use some solid wire to patch these if they are found.

9)  Use a small flat blade screwdriver to carefully lift the needle away from the face of the gauge, so that it doesn't drag on the faceplate.  Don't remove the needle all the way, or the gauge will have to be recalibrated!

 

Non-working analog gauge other than the tach

1)  Clean the contacts on the 4 pins.

2)  Check the resistor on the back of the needle movements (applies to all except tach and volts gauges).  Clean contacts or solder them.

3)  If the problem is with the volts gauge, replace R4.

4)  Resolder the jumpers.  It is common for the solder joints to break due to the lead-bearing solder.

5)  Look for traces that have corroded or broken or evaporated due to excess current.  Use some solid wire to patch these if they are found.

6)  Use a small flat blade screwdriver to carefully lift the needle away from the face of the gauge, so that it doesn't drag on the faceplate.  Don't remove the needle all the way, or the gauge will have to be recalibrated!